16-F Hardwired-To-Wireless Translator Installation On The Qolsys IQ Panel 4

Hey, guys. Hayden here again from Alarm System Store. And today I'm going to be installing a 16 F a hard wired translator onto an IQ four panel that I'm using for this video. basically this is the QZ 7133840, part number if you want to look it up, but it is a 16 zone hardwired to wireless translator. So basically if you are using an IQ panel 4 to take over a hard wired system or to replace a hard wired system, you can use this and keep at least up to 16 of your hard wired zones. Now, there are other options. There is the PG9WLSHW8, I think is what it's called. That is a power G hard wired to wireless translator. And we'll be doing a video on that later. But, this is the one made by Qolsys for the IQ panels using the 319MHz frequency. so if you have an IQ four already and it is not, it does not have the 319MHz frequency card in it you will not be able to use this. You have to use that power G1 that I just mentioned. But we had one of these available. So I'm going to go ahead and do a video on this and show how this works. It's a pretty neat little device. let me get it over here. Basically it is just a circuit board with a bunch of zone inputs and some terminals over here for, power and a siren, but basically, if you have a cabinet or somewhere that a bunch of wires have already been run to in your home, and you want to keep those sensors, this allows you to do so. Right here, if you can see them. Each of these terminals here is a zone except for this first one that is a tamper zone. We'll go over that in a minute. But each of these is a different zone and it goes all the way up to 16. Now one thing to note on zone 16 down here, this is a two wire smoke zone, only. So if you have two wire smokes you can hook them to zone 16. And they will work with this translator. But it cannot be used for anything else. That is two wire smokes only because it has constant power being put out, so that could potentially damage anything else that might be attached to it. So to avoid that, don't hook up anything but two wire smokes to zone 16. Now this wire here just goes to a train transformer that came with the unit.

Basically it's just got two wire inputs. You just stick them in there and plug it in and it's powered. There are a couple additional things we need to do before we actually enroll it though. first off, I'm going to cover connect battery. So with with the 16. And if you're going to get, you know, a hardware kit with some stuff in it, and inside here it has all of the resistors you're going to need. And these two battery cables, as well as some mounting hardware and some screws to hold the cover on. So if I can get these out of here, these right here are your battery cables. So if you want to hook this to a additional battery for backup power, then basically you're going to take these, and right here next to the short terminal block are two large prongs. And ones the negative ones are positive. So red is your positive. So you just slide that down on there. Black is your negative just like that one there. Make sure they're set down all the way. So after you get those on there you can run those to a battery. They're just little push connectors. so that is the only way to get backup power for these wired devices if you lose AC power for any reason and you don't have the battery hooked up, this is going to die and it's going to not be able to report any of the zone functionality to the panel. So it could potentially cause false alarms because the panel can't see the zones. So, make sure that if you are using this, you have some sort of battery backup for it, in case you do lose power to your home.

Now, the other thing we need to do before we go any further is take a jumper. And just like a piece of wire or, there are other options. Basically, you just need an a piece of metal with that open on two ends and that first tamper terminal. we're going to jumper that together so that there's translator doesn't look for a tamper switch. Now if you want to mount this, let's say like in your old cabinet and you have a cabinet switch that's basically like a push button or, you know, any other type of just regular door contact. you can wire that to this tamper switch with no resistor, and that will act as a tamper. So if your cabinet's opened, it will throw that tamper alert and alert you. If you are not doing that, however, you just jump right using a piece of wire like this. So. Open these terminals up. We're going to slide this in here. And this is a little bit odd to work with. The way these are kind of finagled in here. But basically just get one leg in screw it down and you can do the other leg. And we won't have to come back to this in a few minutes to enroll the translator. but we'll get to that once we grab the IC four panel. The only additional thing we need to do is this very small terminal block here on the right is for an antenna. Now, it will come with the devices, but it is basically just a long white antenna like this with an open side there. And we're going to slide this in this hole in the top into the terminal that is in there. And then you need to tighten that down. This antenna is what allows it to transmit to the panel over the long distance that it does. So make sure that you have that installed. Don't overtighten it, but make sure it is snug and not going anywhere. And if you are mounting this in a cabinet like I mentioned, you have to ensure that the antenna is sticking out of the cabinet. So wherever you place this, you need to have an open hole on this side of it so the antenna can stick out. if you don't have one, you're free to drill one. Basically, as long as this is outside of the metal, it should be able to report to the panel.

All right. So before we grab the IQ four and there's a couple things I want to mention about this terminal block over here where your AC wires connect.
so there are two blocks of aux ground outputs. So if you look at it here, you'll see aux and ground and that is power out aux and ground power out. And then this last one is a siren output. So you can use those for your motion detectors or any powered device like glass brake seal detectors, anything that's going to require a constant power source, you're going to use that aux and ground output to power those sensors. So keep that in mind whenever you're wiring or whenever you're routing your wiring to this, your power is going to need to go on this side. And then the zone wires need to either, go to the right or left, depending on what zone you're attaching it to. Those outputs can put out 500 milliamps of output. So, generally that should be more than enough. Even if you put, 16 motion detectors on or wall 15, motion detectors on this device, it should have enough power to run them. but there are two if you need to use both. But now for the siren. That one's a little bit different. It does show how to how to wire that up, in the main tool that comes with it. So if you want to use this with a siren you're more than welcome to. But it is limited to one amp of output period. So like your normal alarm system is going to have generally two amps of output when the system's in alarm. And that is going to go to the bell circuit, which powers the siren on this device that you get half of that. So, you may have to, either get lower current draw sirens or if you have multiple sirens, you may need to take them off. If they're not working properly. basically, just try one at a time, see how much, power they're drawing. If two is putting you over the limit, then obviously those two combined pull more than one amp, so this doesn't have the power to power them.

With all that said, I'll go ahead and grab the IC four and then we'll start enrolling. So with the IC four. And if you've been watching my recent videos, you would have seen the IC panel two, which is basically just this top section. And it doesn't have the speaker bar at the bottom. If this is what your IC panel looks like, this is an IQ four. And this is the newest model that's out right now. But basically I just power this up. I haven't done anything with it yet. I'm just going to hit start on the install wizard and it's going to ask for Wi-Fi stuff. I'm going to skip through most of this and just get to the zone stuff. So I'll go ahead and do that now. Okay. So here we go. I've got the basically we're in the searching for sensors section of the install wizard, so it's ready to add new devices. So we're going to take our 16 F. And I'm going to plug it in real quick. And now that it is powered up you're going to see some LEDs flash. And that's normal. But just give it a minute. Let it power up all the way. And then we are going to hit the EOL learn button for 1 to 2 seconds. basically just hold it down a couple seconds. Everything flashes over here once they go off, like, go. Once you've let go, then it puts the 16 F in learn mode. And if you can see the bottom LED. Now if you're looking at it this way, the antenna to the right, the bottom LED where it says EOL cal that is lit solid. So once that is lit solid, it means this is the 16 F is in learn mode. Now we have to undo this jumper for the tamper right here. And that is going to enroll this on the system. So that's what I was talking about earlier needing to come back to it. But basically you just take it. And as you as you heard there, the IQ panel picked it up. So now we can put the the jumper back in and tighten it back down, and we are good to proceed with the rest of our installation.

So, as you can see here it came up. The window looks very similar to any other device you're going to enroll. basically it shows the ID for the device itself, the seven c4 EA0. That's correct. And it's showing it as a door and window. But that's because the tamper, when you trip that it acts as a door window contact. So that's what it saw. But what we need to do is go into sensor type and scroll down to where it says Hardwire translator. So if you click Hardwire Translator it's going to give you sensor group 13 which is a takeover which is basically what you're doing. You're taking over the hardwired sensors with this wireless device. And then over here you can name it if you want to, you can name it, 16, for, you know, if you have you can have up to two of these. So if you have two of them, you can name them, something different so that, you know which one is which. but I'm just going to leave it as hardwire translator. there is a chime option. I wouldn't bother with that. the only time the chime is ever going to go off is if the tamper goes off on this, and the tamper is already going to send to travel to the panel. So you don't need to worry about that. voice prompts I leave off. but once you're done. oh. Down here where it says source is s-line S-Line is Qolsys's Branded devices. So anything using the 319MHz frequency, that is Falses, we'll say S-Line here. Now if we press on this, it does say security RF 319. But because this is a Qolsys device we don't want that. We want that S-Line, which actually is a security, functionality on that megahertz frequency. So, it's supposed to work a little bit better with the IQ panels. So we're going to leave it as S-Line, and then you click save. Now that means that this module successfully, that means this module itself is enrolled on the panel. But what we need to do now is connect additional devices and then trigger them so that the system can see those new devices.

Before we start adding devices, though, I want to go over the resistor functionality of this 16 of. So as I mentioned earlier, your hardware pack is going to come with resistors. Now these are 4.7 K resistors. That is what this is defaulted to use is 4.7 K. But it actually has a pretty neat function where if you have pre-wired setup and it's using different resistors, you can actually teach this device to use the resistors that are on your devices. Now, I'm not going to go too much into that. I did want to mention it, but it explains it very well in the manual that you get with the with the device, but basically, you put it into, learn EOL learn mode. And what that does is it learns the end of line resistor that is attached to your circuit already. So you cannot do that if you are doing an you, a UL installation, which is, a very scrutinized, but for any sort of residential or pretty much any other application, if you don't need a UL installation, you can use that function to make your life a little bit easier. Because I have these resistors here though, and I don't have a pre wire setup, I'm going to use the 4.7 K resistor function and just use the resistors that came with it. But just keep in mind that that is an option. So check it out whenever you, start reading through the manual. So I'm going to just use this simple door contact. I got two opposite colored pieces. But basically there's contact magnet and get to get a piece of wire. And we're going to wire this thing up for a zone one door contact. All right. So I've gotten all but the positive side of the zone wired up to this contact. Now because we are using, a normally closed, contact, we need to use an N series resistor. So I have one of the resistors here. And what that means is one leg of the resistor is going to go in the device itself, and the other end is actually going to attach to the wire. As such now I'm not going to actually like put a B connector or anything on here to keep them together. I'm just going to twist it together. Don't do that. Make sure that you splice your, your joints properly, and make sure that everything is kosher with your wiring. Otherwise you will run into all sorts of issues trying to get things enrolled on here. So if you're using this setup, make sure you use a B connector or some other crimping or splicing connector to keep these two wires together. But like I said, I'm going to do it the redneck way. Because this is just a demo.

So there we have our door contact. And now what we need to do is to get it enrolled. So in theory this would be on a door. So you would just go and open the door while it's connected, while it's wire it up and it's going to read that that zone off of the 16. So now we can set this up as what it is. So it does give the same sensor ID as what the 16 F gives off. But that is because that's the wireless ID that it needs to talk to to talk to this device. But we're going to set this one up as a door and window. And we're going to use entry exit normal delay. And this is just going to be the front door. You can turn on chime and voice for this. That's great. sources are still going to be s line. And then you're going to click save sensor added successfully. It added that sensor. So when we get to the main screen we'll have a zone one. And it's just going to say front door. But that's going to be our zone one on the 16 F which is this door contact. Now I also have a motion detector that we are going to wire up. So as I mentioned before, we're going to use the aux and ground for our power to this device. So down here at the bottom of the 16 of the red and black wires for your motion are just going to get plugged in there. And on the motion those need to be connected to power and then the yellow and green for the zone. Those are going to be connected to the zone that we wanted to report to. So let me do that real quick. All right. Now, this motion detector, in particular is a normally closed type motion detector. So we're going to use the same resistor setup that we did for the door contact. So it needs to be an N series resistor. If you have a motion with a normally open setup or a form series which offers both normally closed and normally open, you may need to use the in parallel resistor, setup where, your resistor is strapped across both terminals instead of being on just one terminal on one wire. So. Over here I'm going to go ahead and connect the positive side of the zone wire. And we're going to grab another resistor. And because I have the wires inside of that motion already I'm not going to go in there and do it. but essentially you will want this resistor at the end of the line. there's, it's just a bit of a pain for me to do it. So I'm going to put it in here and wrap them together like we did with the door contact. And that way it provides us the resistance that we need. If you want the full functionality of resistors, though, you need to ensure that you place the resistor at the end of the wire line. So at the sensor itself. And that way if the wire gets shorted for any reason whatsoever, that resistance will be cut off and that will alert you that there is a problem with the system.

So let me get this attached here. So we're good there. And I know this is a little bit janky, but that's just for demo purposes. So you just have to live with it. But now that we have that wired up, what we're going to do is strip the motion and that is going to enroll it on the system. So again, it's going to show up as a door window. It may show up as that every single time. I haven't enrolled enough devices on these to know. But it may just give you a default layout where it's always set to door and window and you got to go through and change it. But anyway, since our ID is going to be the same as the 16 if sensor type is going to be in motion, and this one, you can either use the away instant stay instant whatever, I'm going to set it for a way, instant. That way. If we arm in stay mode, the motion will be off. And you can name it whatever you want up here in the top, right. Yeah, I'm just going to leave it as motion detect. Well maybe I can click on it. Motion detector I'm trying in voice prompts you number one on promotions. It would be going off constantly while you're walking around the house and it would get quite annoying. So I'm gonna leave those off and sources is S-line. So we're good. Sensor added successfully. Click save. And now that's all I'm going to add to this for the time being. So I'm going to go ahead and skip through the rest of the install wizard and get basically to the the regular boot screen, the main menu. So I will be right back.

So before we get into too much more, I do want to remind you we put this into you will learn mode. we put the 16 F into learn mode. So we have to disable that. So we're going to hold that button again for a couple seconds. And as you can see the bottom LED there has turned off now.Right. And there for a moment because the 16 F was still in learn mode. We did have both of these sensors active. It was basically showing a bad circuit. but that's because this device was still in learn mode. So it was not reporting correctly to the system. So if you run into that problem, make sure that you turn off the learn mode for the device or for the 16f. So now, if we look under all, we can see the front door which is here, the hardwired translator and the the symbol that it gives you is actually in reference to this tamper switch right here. So just to to give you some heads up, if I remove this tamper, you see the hardwired translator now has that symbol. It might be a little bit hard to see on the camera, but it basically looks like somebody's breaking a cracker in half. And that's what I think it looks like. But that means the circuit is broken. And so that means this device is tampered. So if we put this back in, it will go back to the full oval. And that means this is good. So now, we also have the motion there. It shows a person because it's in standby mode. It's not active. It's not, you know, watching for anything in particular because the system isn't armed. So if we open this door, contact you can see it popped up the door open. And now it shows the broken oval, meaning the sensor is open. We'll put it back and fix itself. And then that's really all there is to it. yeah, that's the 16 F in a nutshell. Now you can go in, if you have any need to, you can go into the settings of your panel and then go to your advanced settings, enter user code and use your installer or dealer code. Hit installation and then devices and then security sensors. And then if we want to edit any sensors on this they're all right here. So it actually lists them the same way that it would each individual hardware or I'm sorry any individual wireless device that you would add. basically they all get their own slot. So just make sure that if you go to edit any of these that it is the correct sensor for one, and that the ID that is showing over here matches the 16 F, because that's what the the IQ panel is talking to about that sensor. So just be aware of that. But if you wanted to edit those you're more than welcome to come in here. You hit the pencil brings up the whole menu again so you can change anything you want to and you can also you don't have to enroll this during the installation Wizard. if you already have a courses and you're, you have some old hard wired devices that you just never hooked up initially. You can go back in and do that. You just have to go into your settings, into the advanced settings or code and then devices, security sensors, and then you go to the auto learn sensor here. Once you get to the auto learn sensor section, that is that operates the exact same as that install wizard section where your auto enrolling devices. So from this screen here I could enroll this and enroll additional zones if need be. Now because I triggered this over here. It's saying that that is already registered so we don't need to add it. But basically you picked up a signal from it again and it tried to add. So as you can see it works on this screen as well. Then is all it takes really.

Now like I said, you don't need a battery backup. There's no trouble condition for not having one. but if you want any sort of power protection on the 16 EV itself, it is a good idea to get a battery that you can connect to these cables. you can use it for any battery batteries, 7 amp. It says a five amp in the manual, but any of the 12 volt, four amp seven, and whatever size it is, it will work. The amperage just determines how long it's going to last. Basically. it does mean some other things, but essentially for most people, the higher the amperage, the longer the battery is going to last, so you can go with the five like they mentioned, or we carry the BD 412 and the BD 712, which are four AMP and seven and batteries respectively. So you can go with those if you want to. and you can stick this in a cabinet like I mentioned. Or, you know, if you are taking over an older system, if you have the battery from that, it should work fine on this as well. But anyway, that is all there is to it. the only other thing that would be a little bit different is the two wire smoke zone. So I want to mention real quick, if you use two wire smokes on the 16 EV, it has to have one of the 4.7 K resistors. So it's got to have one of these blue ones that come with the 16-F. Even if you use the learn resistor mode for the panel, the smoke detectors have to use this resistor because that's just what it's programed to use. so if you're hooking up two wire smokes, just remember that you're going to have to go to the last smoke in the line, and you're going to have to replace the resistor that's there with this resistor with any of the blue ones that come with it, but once that's done, it should operate as normal. You can have up to ten smokes on this thing, as well as 15 other zones. So it covers quite a bit of stuff just in this small package. And like I said, you can have two of these on your system, which just adds to the amount of hardwired stuff you can just carry over from an older system. So, there's nothing really else that I can say about it. there is a reset for this whole device if you want to use it. the memory reset there, you hold it for a certain amount of time, and it'll default the 16 EV. so if you're having troubles, for whatever reason, just go ahead and give it a reboot. Defaulted back to normal, and then start over by enrolling it and then enrolling each of your sensors. So it's got a little bit of built in troubleshooting, which is handy in that regard. And yeah, that's pretty much it. So that's where I'm going to stop this video. if you guys could please like and subscribe, we really appreciate it. If you could also comment, that would be much appreciated. Anything you guys want to see? related to DSC courses? whatever the case may be, go ahead and let us know. And if it is within our power, we will cover it. But otherwise, I will catch you guys on the next one.